Patch Pockets

Guide C-225
Revised by Wendy Hamilton
College of Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences, New Mexico State University

Author: Professor and CES Grants and Contracts Development Specialist, Department of Media Productions, New Mexico State University. (Print friendly PDF)

Patch pockets can be used for decoration or function on blouses, shirts, and jackets.

To prepare the pockets, cut the pocket as directed by the pattern. Patch pockets are generally cut on the lengthwise grain; however, a bias-cut pocket may be used on plaid or striped fabric to avoid having to match the fabric design.

An interfacing will help preserve the shape of the pocket. If a fusible interfacing is used, cut it to the finished pocket size and fuse in place. If a sew-in interfacing is used, cut it by the pocket pattern, stay-stitch in place, then trim it close to the stay-stitching. The hem of the pocket does not need to be interfaced.

Square Pocket

  1. Apply interfacing.

  2. Finish edge hem. Fold the hem to the right side of the pocket and stitch around the pocket on 5/8-in. line. Stitch from top to bottom on each side, then stitch from side to side across the bottom (Figure 1).

  3. Trim seam allowance of hem close to stitching (Figure 1). Turn hem right side out. Press pocket seam allowance along 5/8-in. stitching line.

    Stitch from top to bottom on each side, then stitch from side to side across the bot- tom.
    Figure 1


  4. To miter the corners of the pocket, fold the bottom corners diagonally to line up stitching lines and press (Figure 2). Trim points to 1/4-in. seam allowance. Turn side seam allowance up and press to form mitered corners (Figure 3).

    To miter the corners of the pocket, fold the bot- tom corners diagonally to line up stitching lines and press
    Figure 2


    Turn side seam allowance up and press to form mitered corners.
    Figure 3


  5. Pin pocket in position on garment. Topstitch in place beginning at center of bottom and stitch to top of pocket on each side (Figure 4).

    Topstitch in place beginning at center of bottom and stitch to top of pocket on each side.
    Figure 4


  6. Secure and reinforce top of pocket by sewing a bar tack or triangle in each corner (Figure 5).

    Secure and reinforce top of pocket by sewing a bar tack or triangle in each corner. Photograph of a completed rounded patch pocket
    Figure 5


    Photograph of a completed rounded patch pocket.
    © Andrey Armyagov | Dreamstime.com

Rounded Patch Pockets

  1. Apply interfacing.

  2. Finish edge of hem. Fold to right side of pocket and stitch around pocket on 5/8-in. seamline. To avoid stretching the pocket, stitch from center bottom to top on each side (Figure 6).

    To avoid stretching the pocket, stitch from center bottom to top on each side
    Figure 6


  3. Trim the seam allowance of hem close to the stitching. Turn hem right side out and press.

  4. Sew a row of gathering stitches on the 3/8-in. line around the bottom of the pocket (Figure 7).

    Sew a row of gathering stitches on the 3/8-in. line around the bottom of the pocket
    Figure 7


  5. Trim seam allowances of rounded edges close to the gathering stitches (Figure 8).

    Trim seam allowances of rounded edges close to the gathering stitches.
    Figure 8


  6. Pull up the gathering stitches around the curves just enough to shape the pocket curve along the 5/8-in. stitching (Figure 9).

    Pull up the gathering stitches around the curves just enough to shape the pocket curve along the 5/8-in. stitching
    Figure 9


  7. Trim and notch seam allowance, if necessary, to reduce puckers (Figure 10).

    Trim and notch seam allowance, if necessary, to reduce puckers
    Figure 10


  8. Press pockets to form even, matching curves on each side of pocket (Figure 11).

    Press pockets to form even, matching curves on each side of pocket
    Figure 11


  9. Pin pocket in position. Topstitch in place beginning at the bottom center and sew toward the top pocket on each side.

  10. Secure and reinforce the top of the pocket by backstitching or sewing a triangle in each corner (Figure 5)
>p>Tip: A pocket template can be cut from cardboard and used as a guide when pressing pockets into the correct shape. Lay the template over the wrong side of the pocket and press the seam allowance in place over the template.

For Further Reading

C-211: Sewing Sleeves
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C211/

C-223: Collars
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C223/

C-231: Machine Buttonholes Made Easy
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/C231/

All Clothing Publication Listing
https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_c/


Photo of Wendy Hamilton.

Wendy Hamilton is an Extension Evaluation and Accountability Specialist at New Mexico State University who provides expertise for program development and evaluation. She has worked at four land-grant universities, and has a diverse background in textiles and clothing, adult education, 4-H youth-at-risk, horticulture, evaluation, and grant writing.

To find more resources for your business, home, or family, visit the College of Agriculture and Home Economics on the World Wide Web at pubs.nmsu.edu

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New Mexico State University is an equal opportunity/affirmative action employer and educator. NMSU and the U.S. Department of Agriculture cooperating.

Revised September 2016